Keller's BBQ serves up killer 'cue and fond memories for this Fat Boy

Restaurant:  Keller's BBQ, just South of 436 & 434, Altamonte Springs, FL.

Companion(s):  The Princess

When I was younger, skinnier, and just beginning my journey down the path of culinary wisdom, my parents and I made a couple of trips down to Florida for vacation.  One of my fondest memories was going to Fat Boys BBQ for ribs.  My parents met and married in Central Florida, and this was one of their favorite BBQ places. When we moved here in the Late 80's I couldn't wait to get here and get my fill of Fat Boys on a regular basis.  We wet a couple of times and it was tasty, but far not as good as I remembered.  Is anything ever as good as when we were kids?

They say you can't go home again.  Partnerships dissolve, people move on, quality changes. Chains grow, quality suffers.  Two people can cook the same recipe, but with different results.  I've found ribs that compare to and even beat my the Fat Boys of my childhood, and to me the mark of any BBQ restaurant is the ribs.  So when the Princess said "I'm hungry for hushpuppies" I knew it was time for some killer ribs.

The Keller family were the Original founders of Fat Boys, and their children and grand children carry on the tradition, family recipes, and talent that made the original Fat Boys a Florida BBQ destination.  The first time I tried the ribs I couldn't quite put my finger on what was so familiar about the ribs, despite licking them (the fingers) repeatedly.   The second time I went to Keller's , I read the menu and the light bulb went on!  The rib juice practically running down my arms should have been my first clue, as the first time I ate Fat Boy's as a kid, I remember having to wash my arms up to the elbow, from the juice running down them and dripping off my elbows.  That's some moist and juicy meat folks. (Any any of you even considering ruining the experience by being proper and eating them with a knife and fork can just go to Sonny's, where I won't have to see you).  

At Keller's, you seat yourself at your choice of cow print clothed tables.  The wall murals on one side are of a BBQ shack in the marsh, with a sailboat docked nearby (bonus points for the sailboat).  The other side is the interior of the same restaurant, looking out onto the marsh! (the red curtains on the windows are the tip off). subtle, well done, and a detail probably missed by most.  But then smoking meat is a subtle are, and this attention to the small details is evident in the quality of the meats.

Enough background exposition... on to the meal!  The Princess wanted hushpuppies, and Keller's delivers you a baker's dozen: round, crispy, and flavorful.  They are small but plentiful, and perfectly cooked.  Crispy on the outside, slightly sweet and moist on the inside.  However amazing as they are, appetizers in this place are almost a waste of good stomach space.  The dinners come with 3 (yes three) sides, and texas toast (crispy, buttery garlic bread for the uninitiated).  The Princess opted for a quarter Chicken, a la carte, and my fries.  The chicken is juicy, and some of the smokiest I've tasted.  The fries are crinkle cut and absolute perfection in crispiness, moisture, and texture.  For sides, I got the green beans, which were tasty but average, and the BBQ beans which are well done.  The Texas toast is everything Texas Toast should be, thick, crispy outside, soft inside, buttery, garlicky, and some of the best I've had.  Of course you already know I had the ribs. :)  The thrifty will ask their server how may ribs come on a plate, and after hearing 3-4 will order something else.  Fools, all of them.  These are huge, meaty, smoky, and some nights I can't finish them.  They can be eaten without sauce, though in this case the sauce is outstanding and contributes to the experience. (I've only found ribs in 3 places that I would say putting sauce on them is sacrilege, which makes these the 4th best ribs I've ever eaten.. maybe even 3rd best).  This particular evening they were lacking some of the smoky flavor that usually makes this place what it is... maybe they had a different chef that night, however even their "not as good as usual" is better than most.  Just add sauce.  Speaking of which, you will find three family recipe sauces at Keller's.  Their original is my favorite, a sweet, tomato based classic BBQ sauce.  The mustard based sauce is one of the better I've had, and the hot lives up to it's title, with good flavor and heat.  The only thing I dislike about Kellar's is the lack of side options.  They give you three, but with only 5 or 6 to choose from, it's hard to mix it up.  I'll bet the corn on the cob is good, but they don't let you order it as one of your choices.  It is a la carte only, and not substitutable.  I have never had dessert there, as I've never had room, and occasionally leave with a box of leftovers.  If you leave there hungry, it's your own fault.

All in all, Keller's is a must visit Central Florida foodie destination.  Great food, good service, culinarily historical, local color, and small enough that it hasn't lost it's quality due to growth.  I've had enough meals there that I'm willing to consider the ribs an off night, and hopefully not the start of a downward trend (as happened with Choctaw Willy's).  Lack of choices in sides keeps me from giving it a 10, and the off night keeps it from giving it the 9 I had hoped to for this visit.  Instead I give it 4 ribs, 3 sides, and an order of Texas toast (That's an 8 for the mathematically challenged).